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Trace your steps back to The Cradle of Mankind, the Sterkfontein Caves, before visiting the World Heritage Site at Mapungubwe where around 1000 years ago, an African civilisation we know very little about was bartering gold, ivory and glass beads for goods from China, India and Persia.
Or if you feel nature calling, there's always the crocodile infested Crook's Corner, the Simunye Zulu Lodge, the Ithala Game Reserve or the Lebombo Eco Trail to explore. Whatever route you take, you can be sure that when you reach your destination you will be well rewarded. In every sense. |
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The famous Sterkfontein Caves, where Dr Robert Broom found a million-year-old fossilized cranium of ape-man Australopithecus africanus, might be known as the Cradle of Humankind, but if you really want to get into its belly, do it on the end of rope, dangling like a spider as you descend into the darkness of Bat Cave, which is part of the Cradle network. After an 18-metre abseil, explore a maze of tunnels dating back to the 1800s when the cave was once mined for lime, with mining lamps (and a guide) to show you the way as you end up 70 metres below the earth's surface. Think dripping water, dust and darkness! Those with an adrenaline-deficit disorder can do the down and dirty version of this trip, where you crawl through tunnels on your tummy.
TO BOOK: Wild Cave Adventures, 011 956 6197, www.wildcaves.co.za |
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Back in the bad old days, as any self-respecting crook, poacher or general vagabond knew, Crook's Corner at the junction of the Limpopo and Pafuri rivers was a decidedly hard-to-reach place. And once there, it was exceedingly easy to disappear, much to the annoyance of any authorities in hot pursuit. Why? Because the Corner marks the junction of South Africa, Mozambique and today's Zimbabwe. So, provided you were willing to risk the crocodile-infested waters, escape was easy, and you could choose your destination depending on whose cops were after you! Today it's close to a distinctly more law-abiding picnic site – although the crocs are a little disappointed.
TO GET THERE: Head due east from Pafuri Gate towards the Mozambique border.
SANParks: 012 426 5000 |
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About 1 000 years ago, an African civilisation we know very little about was bartering gold, ivory and glass beads for goods from China, India and Persia – all from the top of a dusty hill in Limpopo. Today Mapungubwe (previously the Vembe Nature Reserve) is a World Heritage Site, but it's hanging on to its ancient secrets.
Archaeologists are trying to read Mapungubwe's history in the dust, and what is known is that it was royals-only on top of the rocky fortress of Mapungubwe hill (commoners lived below) and the way up was via a series of wooden stakes driven into holes in the rocks. It's a little easier today – visitors can climb a wooden staircase to the top to view the various archaeological digs that are still in progress, prompted by the finding of royal burial sites and the famous golden rhino in 1932.
TO GET THERE: Take the N1 north of Johannesburg, then travel via Messina or Alldays.
SANParks 012 428 9111,
Mapungubwe 015 534 2014. |
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No-one arrives at Ithala by accident, it's simply not on the way to anywhere. And since it's still
probably one of South Africa's best-kept secrets, the good news is you're not going to be crowded, either.
Ithala, which appropriately means ‘shelf' in Zulu, straddles an area that plummets from 1 450 metres to just 400 metres above sea level, creating interesting terrain for the two 4x4 routes on offer there. But game is the main attraction. Look out for black and white rhino, elephant and giraffe, along with zebra, wildebeest and various antelope, all looking quite relaxed as there are no lions. Choose from
fabulous bush camps on the river, or well-equipped chalets and a restaurant at the main camp.
To get there: Turn off the N2 at Pongola and head for Louwsburg.
KZN Wildlife 033 845 1000, Ithala 034 983 2540 |
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It's a fairly long drive to Kosi Bay, but it could have been a lot further. In 1822, a Captain William Owen was commissioned to survey the southeast coast of Africa. In Delagoa Bay (now Maputo Bay in Mozambique), locals told him about the Mkuze River much further south, which drains into Lake St Lucia. But the good captain didn't get that far: when he came upon the estuary just south of Ponto do Ouro (on the Mozambique-South Africa border), he assumed it was the Mkuze, which he mistakenly called Kosi. And that's what this chain of lakes, famous for its ancient fishing kraals, has remained named to
this day.
TO GET THERE: Take the Jozini turn off the N2 and head for Kangwanase.
KZN Wildlife: 033 845 1000 |
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How would you like to reach Simunye – on horseback, ox wagon, donkey cart or on foot? Once you've left your car at the old trading store, those are the options for the journey down to this fairytale lodge deep in the hills of Zulu chief Shaka's hunting grounds. Down in the valley, a rural track delivers you to the peaceful Mfule River, with delightful rambling stone chalets clinging to the cliffside. There's a Zulu village across the river – at night around the fire, Zulu legends unfold to the drumbeat of Africa. (You can go by 4x4 if you book in advance.)
TO GET THERE: From the N2 north of Durban take the R66 then R34 to Melmoth.
TO BOOK: Simunye Zulu Lodge, Protea Hotels, 035 450 3111 |
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While the crowds flock to Sodwana Bay, aim for something a little more off the beaten track. A little further north is a beautifully remote beach, flanked by a deep black, viciously sharp rocky headland, made more stark by the white-foamed waves that crash dramatically against it. That's Black Rock, and although it's relatively small and seriously harsh, at least someone calls it home: it's the only place in South Africa you'll find Bouton's skink, a kind of lizard. Black Rock falls into the Coastal Forest Reserve – permits are required to enter (available at the Kosi Bay and Manzengwenya offices). There are various lodge and camping options along the coast. Don't forget to wear tough-soled shoes!
TO GET THERE: From Sodwana, take the sand road north past Lala Nek and Rocktail Bay.
A 4x4 is recommended.
KZN Wildlife: 033 845 1000 |
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Sick of the traffic jams in Kruger Park? Then opt for the roads less travelled up the park's eastern border with Mozambique. Although 4x4s are required, the five-day Lebombo Eco Trail is an easy route that stretches from Komatipoort in the far southern corner of the park, all the way to its northern point, on roads that are usually closed to the public. Although there's slightly less game here than on the main routes, you won't be disappointed – in fact you might be a little relieved when you snuggle down in your tent at night, in your unfenced camps.
TO BOOK: SANParks, 012 426 5000, www.sanparks.org |
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